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Martinique | Agricole | 50% ABV | Column Still (1-4)
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Neisson produces an excellent spirit at the 50º and 70º (Espirit) cuts; however, I find it hard to explain the desire for ambres with agricoles in general. The resting imparts color and an abbreviated interaction with the charred barrel wood, no doubt, but not in the extreme sense of the vieux ageing process, which clearly appeals to the whiskey/cognac drinkers and those who love aged or dark rums. Perhaps, as I'm not really in either of the latter categories, it's fair I qualitatively describe this pun of a drink.
A toned rhum agricole blanc is what I would start with describing this as. At the nose and sip - fragrant in citrus fruits (think orange and grapefruit) and a bitter wash upfront, quickly dissipating into the hints of caramelized burned wood barrel features, but not overpoweringly as in a vieux-style, as I had mentioned. The after palate is a warm burning ember tossed to the back of the chimney of your throat, and the taste liners with a hint of pungent citrus mustiness. I feel this one, and Pere Labat's gold, are definitely worth checking out for this middling rhum agricole category.
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Petit rhum sympatique dans cette gamme de prix sans surprise